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| How to Choose Downhill Skis | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Skiing is as sport that will let you enjoy the beauty of mountain wilderness along with the exhilaration of the perfect carve or an aggressive run. Skis have changed enormously in the last decade; however, the way you choose skis hasn't changed all that much. 1. Determine your skiing ability, your skiing goals and the terrain you'll ski most often. 2. Match-up the kinds of skiing you want to do with the right ski for you. Consider ski length, width and construction. 3. If you don't know what kind of skier you are, or, if you've never been on a shaped ski, take several skis for a test run. This is your best method for figuring out which ski is right for you. What Kind Of Skier Are You? Different ski areas and shops will use various means to determine your skiing ability. The most widely accepted classification is also the one we use. To determine the kind of skier you are, go through the "Types" below and see which statements most often apply to you. Below you'll see symbols that represent trail difficulty. This rating system exists at all ski areas and can help you determine where on the mountain you want to ski. Green circle—beginner Blue square—intermediate Black diamond—advanced Double black diamond—most difficult Yellow triangle—gate to backcountry/off-piste skiing NOTE: Release/retention settings determine how easily your boot comes away from the binding. This is also called the DIN setting. The trick is to have it low enough so that your boot releases during a fall, but high enough to keep up with the kind of skiing you do. The more aggressive you ski the higher this setting will be. |
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| Skier Types Type I Skiers Beginner or "bunny" slopes, green circle and blue square slopes ski conservatively prefer slower speeds prefer easy, moderate slopes favor lower than average release/retention settings Type I settings apply to entry-level skiers uncertain of their classification Type II Skiers Intermediate, blue square to black diamond slopes, off-piste ski moderately prefer a variety of speeds ski on varied terrain, including most difficult trails Type III Skiers Advanced intermediate to expert, black diamond, double black diamond slopes, off-piste. ski aggressively normally ski at high speeds prefer steeper and more challenging terrain favor higher than average release/retention settings Remember that a categorization is only as good as your honesty about your abilities. Save the embellishments for the ski lodge.  Understanding Ski Length Way back in the early '90s, you could determine your ski length by reaching the tip of the ski to the top of your head. You'd add five to 10 centimeters according to skill and weight. Using the top of your noggin is still a good guide, but with shaped skis, the trend is downward. Shaped skis are wider and have more surface area touching the snow. They're more stable. If one word can describe the way they work, the word would be "automatic." Give a little lean and the skis almost turn themselves. Because of this and new construction techniques and materials, shaped skis can be shorter than their pre-nineties, long-planked ancestors. With such a versatile ski, manufacturers also don't have to produce as many lengths of ski. It's not one size fits all, but it's darn close. Shaped skis now come in only four or five lengths from about 160 to just under 200 centimeters. What ski length should you get? Here's a good rule of thumb. If you're a beginner to intermediate skier go from head height minus 10 to 15 centimeters. If you're already an accomplished skier go from 5 to 10 centimeters under head height. More important than height, though, is a skier's weight. Heavier skiers can turn a larger ski with less effort than lighter skiers can. Two skiers, each weighing 200 pounds, will not feel a significant difference on the ski, though one might measure 5'9" and the other 6'1". This is why women's skis have become very popular. Women, especially petite women, are light and need a ski that's very responsive. Other thoughts on ski length have to do with your skiing style and the terrain. It's thought that you should go up 5 centimeters (for more edging power) if you want to ski fast, and down 5cm if you're a slower, more tentative skier. Understanding Ski Specifications As you read through our online selection of skis, you may see specification charts outlining the construction features and dimensions of each model. These next two sections define what those specifications mean to you. Skier Type/Ability This refers to your skiing ability, experience and aggressiveness. The three basic categories are: Beginner – Type I Intermediate – Type II Advanced/Expert – Type III Sidecut Radius When people talk about sidecut, they're talking about the amount of curve in the ski. A deep sidecut generally means a quick turning ski; a shallower cut means a broader carving ski. But to measure "sidecut" and talk about it in quantifiable terms, we need to use a couple of other terms. One of the best measurements for sidecut is the sidecut radius. Picture a ski, looking down at it from above. It has inward curves (sidecut) on either edge. Now draw an imaginary circle that extends from one of those curves outward. If your imaginary ski has a deep sidecut (very curvy) the circle you draw will be smaller. If the sidecut is shallow (straighter profile) then the circle will have to be very large. The sidecut radius is a line drawn from the ski edge to the center of the circle. Measured in meters, the sidecut radius is the size of the turn that the ski will make when set on edge. Another gauge is a ski's profile dimensions. Profile Dimensions Measured in three areas—the tip, the waist, and the tail—the profile dimension measurements give an accurate description of the ski. Knowing these measurements, it's easy to judge a ski's uses. For example: A wide waist, say 70 millimeters, will describe a ski useful on groomed slopes, powder and just about anywhere but a mogul run. A wider waist, 80mm, is definitely a powder ski, while a narrow waist, 60mm, belongs to a very lively, quick ski. A ski with a wide waist, 70mm, and a narrower tail, say 85mm, is called a "generous cut" ski and is good for skiers who are just starting out. Each of our specification charts lists the profile dimension with the tip first, then the waist, then the tail. Example: 106/68/96 millimeters. Put it all together and it works generally like this: Do you want to make short, tightly carved turns? Go for a narrow waist and small sidecut radius—19 to 21 meters. Medium length turns for skiing around the whole mountain call for a medium waist and sidecut radius—21 to 22 meters. For longer turns or racing, go for a fairly straight, wide ski, that is, one with a shallow sidecut or large sidecut radius—22 to 24 meters. Skiing moguls requires skis with little sidecut because the turns are made more in the air than actually on the snow. Powder skis are wide in the waist with a large tip and tail to get and stay on top of the powder. Understanding Ski Construction The most durable skis use fiberglass cloth wrapped around a wood or foam core to form a seamless torsion box. Another common construction is laminate or sandwich, which uses layers of fiberglass glued to the top and bottom of the core. Although sandwich construction often provides a smoother ride than a torsion box, it's also less durable and can delaminate over time. A third construction method is the so-called Cap. Most skis today are designed with a one-piece fiberglass top and sides, with steel edges embedded in the sides. Sometimes referred to as a monocoque construction, the outer shell carries all or a major part of the stress. It's more durable than the older-style cap and sidewall construction. Core A ski's core contributes to its overall weight, and to some degree, its flex. Wood and various types of foam are the most common core materials. Wood tends to be more responsive. It's also more durable and resilient, but more expensive. Foam cores are lighter weight and have a more consistent flex, plus they're less expensive. The downside is that they can feel less than lively next to wood core skis. With construction becoming more complex these days, though, the core is less of a factor in the flex or stiffness of a ski. Flex Longitudinal stiffness, or amount of flex in a given ski, makes a big difference in how and where you ski. Stiff-flexed skis are able to absorb the shock that is normally generated at high speeds and on hard-packed surfaces. They are intended for fast-skiing experts who stick to packed or groomed surfaces such as racecourses. Stiff skis are more difficult to maneuver, because they require the technique of tilting onto the edges to create carved turns. Pliable or soft-flexing skis are easiest for a beginner to learn on and are also more maneuverable in deeper snow. In between are medium-flex skis, aimed at the intermediate level skier. Intermediate skiers usually skid the tails of their skis at the end of a turn to slow themselves down or to shorten the turn. The mid-range flex allows for these skidded turns, but is stiff enough to handle more variety in terrain than softer skis. Base Some ski bases are made of graphite, but most skis have polyethylene (PE) bases, the most common brand of which is P-Tex. Less expensive skis generally have extruded polyethylene bases. These don't hold wax long, and don't perform as well in dry/cold conditions or very wet conditions. They are easy to repair though, and don't require as much upkeep. Higher-quality skis have sintered bases, which are stronger and hold wax well, but are more difficult to repair and need to be waxed frequently to prevent oxidation. General Ski Categories Though skis fall in the following categories, any ski today is more versatile and user-friendly than the thin-planks of a decade ago. Expert/Racing Skis Built for speed, these boards are generally narrower. They're designed for racing, competition and aggressive skiers who like to push themselves, especially on hard-packed or groomed slopes. Usually the stiffest skis, they absorb shock and vibration at high speeds. This stiff flex, along with a straighter profile, requires good technique to make these skis turn. Giant slalom - These are expert racing skis that make fast, large, carved turns. They usually hold an edge well in deep, wet snow. Slalom - These are advanced racing skis that make shorter, faster turns than giant slalom skis. They offer good control on steep, icy terrain. All Mountain/Performance Skis For intermediate to advanced skiers who carve turns on the whole mountain, but stay mostly on groomed snow. They are wider than racing skis and have a slightly softer flex, so they can handle more snow conditions and slower turning speeds. Their wider tips (also called shovels) pull them into turns more easily so the skier doesn't have to rely quite as much on perfect technique. Developmental Carving Skis These are similar to the skis above, but have a softer flex to be more responsive at slower speeds. Designed for beginners to intermediates, the shape of the skis encourages carving turns. They feature wider tips and narrower tails to be more forgiving of intermediate skiers who skid their tails at the end of a turn rather than carving through it. Skiers who go out on weekends or only occasionally will appreciate these skis. Freeride Midfat Skis You've probably heard the terms all-terrain, all-mountain, off-piste, freeride and free-skiing. These terms all (loosely) describe the same thing: skis and skiers that go anywhere on the mountain and in any kind of snow. These skis are the most popular type for the versatility they offer. They are frequently called "mid-fat" skis, due to the fact that they are wider than skis made just for groomed slopes or high-speed racing, and yet narrower than true powder skis. Mid-fats, typically 100 to 109 millimeter wide at the tip and over 70mm at the waist, are wide enough to motor their way through powder and old, chopped-up snow but not so wide as to be unmanageable on groomed runs or packed snow. Freeride Fat Skis Freeride fat or powder skis are built extra wide to provide good flotation in powder snow. They're typically over 110 millimeter in the tips and over 100mm in the tails with wide waists. Fat skis maneuver beautifully through powder, but in other snow conditions, especially groomed slopes, they can be difficult, even for the best skiers. Freestyle Skis Referred to as "new school," these skis are designed for doing tricks and jumps in terrain parks very similar to those for snowboarding. They are also used for skiing moguls and catching air. Shorter than other skis, they range from 120 to 180 centimeters long offering excellent maneuverability. Ski Boards These are short play boards, usually between 60 and 100 centimeters long. Ski boards are great for doing tricks and jumps and are easy to get the hang of, as long as you keep your speed down. Go too fast and they become unstable. Out of bounds skiing is pretty much out of the question, too, since these little guys don't have enough surface area to handle deep powder. Ski boards usually come with adjustable, but non-releasable, bindings that accommodate snowboard boots. Some are available with standard, releasable bindings for ski boots. Women's Skis Skis are available in men's and women's models. Women's skis are generally lighter weight and have a softer flex than most men's skis. Bindings on most of the women's models are positioned farther forward to increase stability and make turning easier. Women can, of course, go with any ski model appropriate for their ability and terrain preferences. Some women, however, especially those with smaller builds, find that lighter women's skis are easier to control. |
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